Panerai of late has become known as innovating by using very specific and unusual materials to make their watches better and more solid.
Much is the case with what they have released at SIHH 2017. The first and most impressive new model they released is the PAM0700- PANERAI LAB-ID™LUMINOR 1950 CARBOTECH 3 DAYS – 49 MM. What makes this unique is that Panerai Laboratorio di Idee has sought inspiration in the world of high technology, exploring the most creative international developments, and it has found the answer in the infinite potential of carbon. Every component of the new PANERAI LAB-IDTM demonstrates the ability of this chemical element to create materials with exceptional properties: the case, made of a composite material based on carbon fibre; the dial, covered with carbon nanotubes; and the movement that, thanks to the mechanical properties of carbon composites, works without any lubrication. It is a remarkable glimpse into the future of mechanical watchmaking, demonstrating the infinite development potential of a supremely traditional and appealing area of craftsmanship.
THE CARBOTECH CASE: HIGH PERFORMANCE AND EVERY EXAMPLE UNIQUE The Luminor 1950 case – 49 mm in diameter – is made of carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fibre, which was introduced into the world of watchmaking by Panerai. As well as ensuring exceptional technical performance, carbotech has a dense, uneven blackness which varies with the cut of the material, making each individual example different from all the rest, and unrepeatable. The dial has the classic sandwich structure invented by Panerai, in which the luminous substance – in this case blue-coloured Super-LumiNova® – emerges through the openings made in the dial corresponding to the hour markers and the small seconds dial, ensuring excellent visibility and legibility. In the PANERAI LAB-IDTM these characteristics are further enhanced by the innovative materials used: the dial has a coating of carbon nanotubes, used for the first time by Panerai for the display dial. The optical properties of this special coating have been specially developed to absorb light, reducing reflection to a minimum and giving the dial a particularly deep black appearance, forming a spectacular contrast with the blue of the hour markers and hands, which follow the classic Panerai design. Because it is not possible to print or stamp a dial with these characteristics, all the figures are formed directly on the dial crystal, to which a double anti-reflective treatment has been applied Most of the P.3001/C movement of the new PANERAI LAB-IDTM can be seen through the large porthole protected by a sapphire crystal which is set in the back of the watch, enabling the power reserve indicator to be read.
The skeletonising of the bridges and the barrels makes it even easier to admire the technical excellence and finish of a calibre of GREAT reliability and precision. The movement’s distinctive features include a balance wheel which is no less than 13.2 mm in diameter, fixed by a bridge with twin supports and oscillating at a frequency of 3 Hz, and the device which stops the balance and returns the seconds hand to zero (seconds reset) when setting the time, so that the watch can be perfectly synchronised with a reference signal. *Please refer to the Guarantee booklet accompanying the watch for further details regarding the guarantee scope.
The skilful use of different materials and coatings based on CARBON have enabled friction between the components of the movement to be reduced to a minimum. There are only four jewels and no external lubrication is needed. The watch is GUARANTEED FOR 50 YEARS*. There are only 50 of these watches being produced for the world. I am sure these watches are all spoken for. It has a modern vintage look that brings the image of the brand into the future.
The Second watch I want to focus on is the PAM00692- LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 BMG-TECH™ 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC – 47 MM. This is manufactured out of a an invisible but revolutionary innovation, resulting from Panerai’s continuos research into design and new materials: the first case entirely made of BMG-TECH™. This is a bulk metallic glass with a disordered atomic structure, obtained through a high-pressure injection process at a high temperature, followed by a cooling process lasting for only a few seconds, so that the atoms do not have enough time to become arranged in an ordered, regular structure.
This is the secret to its great robustness and extreme resistance to corrosion, external shocks and magnetic fields, and enables it to preserve its appearance over time. The functions of the watch include hours, minutes, sub seconds and date.
Years ago, Panerai was the first to innovate an popularized using the alloy of bronze to make their limited edition timepieces. This also reinvigorated the Submersible as an important icon of the brand’s identity.
The NEW PAM00671-LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC BRONZO – 47MM is the third watch I would like to focus on. This is also the third time Panerai has used Bronze to manufacture a watch. The dial is a phenomenal blue with contrastingluminous hour markers and dots. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock. The functions are hours, minutes, sub seconds and date. I really wish there was no date on this watch. It’s so beautifully executed as it is and really doesn’t need one. The watch is tied together with the Calf Ponte Vecchio, Dark brown, Beige, 26/22 MM Standard.
This watch is limited to 1,000 units for the world and once again I am sure will sell out and be impossible to get and demand quite the premium.
The next watch LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO – 42 M is a first for Panerai. For this SIHH they decided to release a Submersible 1950 case in a 42mm size in brushed steel. Most every Submersible Panerai have made is 47mm or bigger. This a great watch for those who feel 47mm is too big. The dial is black with a steel blued luminous sub seconds hand and it’s fitted on a black rubber strap.
Keeping in the spirit of 42mm and Submersible, Panerai also released the PAM00684- LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ORO ROSSO – 42 MM. This watch is the 18k red gold and ceramic version as the 1950 AMAG Submersible. The case is 18k red gold 42mm 1950 Submersible. The bezel is black ceramic. It has a 3 Days power reserve that is driven by the Automatic mechanical, P.9010 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai. Personally, I wish they made this a brass case and ceramic bezel. It would have been way cooler and much less expensive I would think.
The next watch is something we are familiar with in terms of lay out. It’s called the PAM1305- LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC TITANIO – 47 MM. It made a very rugged and masculine Submersible that much cooler with adding the steel blued seconds hand. The case is 47mm and made out of titanium. It has a crazy depth rating of water resistance to 300 meters which is almost 1000 feet. It’s powered by the Automatic mechanical, P.9010 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai and fitted on a black rubber strap. This watch is replacing the Panerai PAM00305 which is now officially sold out!
The last Submersible to round out the collection is called, the Panerai PAM01389- LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 19503 DAYS AMAGNETIC AUTOMATIC TITANIO – 47 MM. This watch is basically replacing the PAM00389 eventually. Both models will be produced for one year and then the NEW PAM001389 will probably replace it. The difference between this version and the original version PAM00389 are subtle yet impactful differences. The new version has a slimmer case but remains the same size at 47mm. It gets a brand new 3 Day movement which is antimagnetic. The dial is slightly different with the replacing of the steel blued seconds hand for contrast. The dial is now crisper, cleaner and more legible.
The final watch Panerai released at SIHH 2017 is called PAM00727, LUMINOR MARINA 1950 AMERICA’S CUP 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO – 44MM. This is the official watch of the 35th America’s Cup.
The conjunction between one of the most classic Panerai models and an aesthetic which pays tribute to the America’s Cup has resulted in the Official Watch of the 35th edition of the oldest sports competition in the modern world: the Luminor Marina 1950 America’s Cup 3 Days Automatic, a Special Edition of 300 units. It is a creation of great simplicity, minimalist in design and fundamental in function, with characteristics which make it a perfect watch for use at sea. The case of the Luminor Marina 1950 America’s Cup 3 Days Automatic, inspired by that historically created by Panerai for the commandos of the Italian Navy, is made from AISI 316L stainless steel, as is the lever device protecting the crown, on which it exercises a light pressure, protecting it from accidental shocks and helping to guarantee water-resistance to the very high limit of 30 bars (about 300 metres). On the classic black dial the phrase AMERICA’S CUP is printed in blue, and with the red of the seconds hand and the white of the other indications on the dial, it immediately recalls the colours of the logo of the celebrated competition. Inside the Luminor Marina 1950 America’s Cup 3 Days Automatic is the P.9010 automatic movement with a power reserve of three days, made entirely in the Panerai Manufacture at Neuchâtel.
The energy needed to accumulate the power reserve of three days – the base standard for Panerai in-house movements – is stored in two barrels whose springs are wound by a bidirectional oscillating weight. The black strap of the Luminor Marina 1950 America’s Cup 3 Days Automatic (PAM00727), made of natural untreated leather, is personalised to express the spirit of the America’s Cup: it has the logo of the competition heat-embossed on both sides and it is finished with double sewing in contrasting blue and red threads.