The GPHG is by far the most prestigious watch prize in the industry! The categories includes; Ladies, Ladies High Mech, Men’s, Chronograph, Tourbillon, Calendar, For the first time Travel Time which will replace The Striking Watches category, Mechanical Exception, “PETITE AIGUILLE”, Sports, JEWELRY and ARTISTIC CRAFTS.
My Personal favorites from the Men’s category include
THE H. Moser & Cie
SWISS ALP Watch
The H. Moser & Cie Swiss ALP Watch was a subtle yet impactful middle finger to technology. With the advent of Smart watches, their tongue and cheek approach was a way of letting the public know that to really connect you need to respect the tradition of fine watch making.
The Swiss Alp Watch is a symbol of H. Moser & Cie.’s commitment to the values on which the reputation of Swiss watchmaking has been built for so many centuries. A harmonious balance between modern design and timeless tradition, the Swiss Alp Watch is completely mechanical, with a rectangular Manufacture movement and a minimum power reserve of 100 hours. Featuring the H. Moser & Cie. signature fumé dial, it defies time. Its tapered lugs give it a vintage look, and the kudu leather strap with a leather lining in Moser green, lend the watch a modern edge that also stands testament to the company’s attention to detail.
The Swiss Alp Watch is driven by a handsome hand-wound HMC 324 form calibre, which can be seen through the sapphire case-back. This Manufacture movement, with a modular Moser escapement made entirely in-house, is hand finished and decorated in the purest watchmaking tradition.
The Swiss Alp Watch is a marvel of ingenuity, showcasing the best of Swiss watchmaking expertise and countering the current trend for connected watches.
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Black
In less than a year the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Black has managed to become one of the most iconic and sought after watches in the world! I can’t; get enough of it! I bought one for myself the day it came out on October 15, 2015. I was searching for a vintage Rolex or Tudor tool watch but didn’t want to spend 10-15k This ticks all the boxes without breaking the bank . This watch was made for less than a year and is being discontinued to make way for a NEW version with in house movement. To read my full review of it and watch the videos, click HERE
The Heritage Black Bay, presented for the first time in 2012 and honoured by the jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva the following year, has been updated for 2016 with a mechanical movement developed, manufactured and assembled in-house by TUDOR. One of the brand’s truly iconic models, it celebrates 60 years of diving watches with extraordinary heritage.
The characteristic elements of the Heritage Black Bay’s personality have been drawn from TUDOR’s history. It inherits the general lines, as well as the domed dial and crystal from the first TUDOR div- ing watches. It features the particularly prominent
winding crown from the famous 7924 reference of 1958, known as the Big Crown. It borrows the charac- teristic angular hands, known as snowflake, from the watches delivered in large quantities to the French National Navy in the 1970s.
A NEW STEEL BRACELET
TUDOR has also reworked the steel bracelet which comes with this model, taking inspiration from the brand’s riveted bracelets made in the 50s and 60s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links in evidence on the side of the bracelet, as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details have now been integrated into the bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay model, which bene ts at the same time from modern manu- facturing methods with solid links. Also available with an aged leather strap and folding clasp, the Heritage Black Bay model is supplied in both cases with an extra strap in matching fabric: black or bur- gundy for the version with the burgundy bezel, blue for the version with the blue bezel and black for the version with the black bezel and red triangle. Made in the Jacquard technique according to traditional methods by a hundred-year-old family business from the St-Etienne region of France, these straps are a signature feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line.
THREE VERSIONS AND THREE PERSONALITIES
The Heritage Black Bay model is available in three versions, each with its own personality. With its burgundy bezel, black dial, rose-gold hands and markers and cream coloured luminescent coating, the original TUDOR Heritage Black Bay has the soand warm patina of an antique watch. Radically dif- ferent and rightly nicknamed “Midnight Blue” by a cionados of the brand, the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay with its blue bezel displays the ice-cold face and sharp contrasts which lend to the watch the look of a professional technical instrument. Of the three, the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay “Black” version best captures the pioneer spirit of therst TUDOR diving watches. A notable new decorative detail is the fam- ous red triangle on the unidirectional bezel, taken from the TUDOR models of the 1950s.
THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. Therst in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan, according to whom the form of an object must follow its function. Furthermore, it laid down the aesthet- ic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch, those of an understated, functional and re- liable tool. The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch and each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in theeld, including some of the greatest military navies in the world.
THE HERITAGE LINE
A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’srst chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most im- portant references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, the models in this line bring together the past, present and fu- ture, with the aesthetic codes that contributed to the reputation of historic models instilled into contem- porary timepieces. The Heritage Black Bay models are part of an approach in which more than 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches are condensed.
In the Chronograph Category I like the Montblanc 1858 CHRONOGRAPH TACHYMETER LIMITED EDITION
In the last couple of years Montblanc has shown us that they are not just a pen company. They are being taken seriously and are evolving into horological wizards! Generally, I am not a fan of chronograph watches but this mono pusher limited edition chronograph is clean and symmetrical. It’s limited to 100 pieces, made in steel. 44 mm in case diameter and the functions include; chronograph, hours, minutes and seconds. It has a blue dial with white Arabic numerals with a sub seconds counter at the nine o’clock position and a thirty minute subdial chronograph counter at the three o’clock position. It’s fitted on a nice blue alligator strap with contrasting white stitching.
Montblanc pays tribute to the legendary Minerva chronographs with a brand new 1858 Chronograph TachymeterLimited Edition , uniting the reference in chronographs with the innovations of the present.
Paying tribute to the heritage of its manufacture in Villeret, founded under the name Minerva and acquired in 2007 by Montblanc, the Maison presents a timepiece inspired by Villeret’s legendary Minerva chronographs. The prestigious Minerva manufacture was the reference in the field of chronographs and stopwatches during the 1920s and ‘30s. These legendary timekeepers were able to measure fractions of a second with the utmost precision — a feat of horological manufacturing for the time. Calibres such as the reference 13.20, launched in the 1920s, were among the very first to be conceived specifically for wristwatches, while the Calibre 19.14, unveiled in 1936, could measure the hundredth of a second. Montblanc’s split-second stopwatches also gained international recognition when they were used for timing the 1936 Winter Olympics, which reinforced the Maison’s reputation.
Most watchmakers outsourced their watch components throughout those two decades, whereas Minerva mastered the majority of its fabrication in-house, including its balance wheels and springs…and the same remains true today. This year, Montblanc continues this passion for fine watchmaking by honoring Minerva’s emblematic chronographs of yesteryear with a new manufacture 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition. Inspired by a monopusher chronograph from the 1930s, this new limited edition of 100 pieces captures the innovative spirit of the decade by uniting a number of the original design features with one of Villeret’s most elegant manufacture, hand-wound chronographs— the Calibre MB M16.29 — featuring a column wheel and a horizontal disc clutch.
A vintage inspiration
On the historical side, a fluted crown with a coaxial push-piece is reminiscent of the early crowns that were designed for easy grasp, while the elegant dial, with its large white luminescent Arabic numerals and a railway track, is also typical of the period. The small seconds at nine o’clock, the chronograph 30-minutes counter at three o’clock, the retro Montblanc logo, used from the beginning of the 21st century, and the large “cathedral” hands, with their cloisonné design filled with white Super-LumiNova®, all stay faithful to the original design.
Montblanc’s 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition celebrates both traditional Swiss artisanal watchmaking and the rich heritage of Montblanc’s Villeret Manufacture, but offers a contemporary twist to the past with a large 44 mm stainless steel case with slightly enlarged lugs, to keep the proportions of the case the same. The addition of a deep blue dial with a tachymetric scale for measuring speeds over distance, along with a matching blue alligator strap, also contribute to reinforcing the vintage look of this historical timepiece.
Under the dial, Montblanc has equipped the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition with its monopusher chronograph with column wheel and horizontal disc clutch that fills the whole 44 mm case. This movement shares the same architecture as its predecessor — the Minerva pocket watch Calibre 17.29 from 1929 — although it has been re-designed extensively with hand-finishings, including Côtes de Genève motifs, extensive bevelling, angling and snailing, all respecting the finest codes of Haute Horlogerie. Looking through the caseback, it is possible to see the iconic engraved “V” chronograph bridge, which has been a feature of Minerva chronographs since 1912, as well as the Minerva arrow-shaped chronograph hammer that can be found in almost all the modern Montblanc/Minerva movements. Other features include a large screw-regulated balance wheel and a swan-neck regulator. The calibre is comprised of 252 components and beats at a frequency of 2.5 Hertz with a power reserve of 50 hours.
Uniting the reference in chronographs with the innovations of the present, the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition is the perfect example of how Montblanc pays homage to the prestigious Minerva calibres. From 1858, Minerva was committed to producing precision timepieces with high-quality calibres, and Montblanc continues this tradition and heritage today.
In the Calendar category I like the Audemars Piguet ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is the most iconic octagonal shaped watch in history . I am not a fan of yellow gold but I love good contrast. I would have preferred this watch to be in rose gold but this watch is a great example of a useful calendar watch that can be worn everyday. It’s legible and beautifully executed. The blue dial and yellow gold play together in perfect harmony. The case is 41 mm in diameter and functions include; Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Day, Month, Year, Moonphase, Perpetual calendar. The outer ring displays the weeks in a year, while the subdial at the thee o’clock displays the 31 days of the month, the subdial at nine o’clock position displays the days of the week subdial at twelve displays the month and leap year while the subdial at six displays the moon phase function.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar combines yellow gold with the most classic complication in all of watchmaking. Day, date, month, astronomical moon, with the week of the year displayed on the dial’s outer chapter ring and the essential leap year indication hold pride of place on the “Grande Tapisserie” decorated dial.
The new lighter blue of the dial harmonises beautifully with the warm yellow of the gold case, hour-markers and luminescent hands.
Housed in an assertively sized 41 mm yellow gold case, the selfwinding watch’s new larger calibre 5134 is fully visible through the glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback.
The second watch I like within the Calendar category is the
MANUFACTURE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
This watch took the watch world by surprise when Frederique constant released a perpetual calendar with an in house manufactured movement for $8500 in stainless steel.
Ever since the creation of Frederique Constant, Swiss made fine watchmaking has been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its founders, both whom deeply admire and respect the mechanical ingenuity and the refined aesthetic of Swiss watches. For this reason, the independent family-owned brand decided to create its own in-house movement and launched in 2004 the Heart Beat Manufacture calibre.
As a company, the passionate watchmaker Frederique Constant doesn’t rest on its past achievements but makes it a point of honour to continue to innovate, by exploring new possibilities. Indeed, with already 19 movements in its name, which are entirely, designed, produced and hand-assembled in the Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates. Frederique Constant continues, every year, to add movements to its in-house collection; and this year is no exception
After introducing the first Swiss made Horological Smartwatch, powered by MotionX® last year, Frederique Constant is pushing out the boundaries of innovation once more. This year, Frederique Constant is investing a new field of mechanical perfection by creating its first in-house perpetual calendar with the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar. A mechanical wonder, that will keep track on all the days of our lives for a century at a time.
Designed in keeping with classical watchmaking principles, updated with innovative 21st century techniques the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar of Frederique Constant has been entirely created to meet customers requirements, which are : robustness, reliability and easy to adjust.
The in-house movement encased in this watch, was entirely created by Manuel Da Silva Matos, R&D director, and Pim Koeslag, technical director of Frederique Constant, after two years of research and development, a creative tandem who constantly surprise us by the technical mastery displayed in their timepieces.
The Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar is one of the most innovative yet easy to assemble perpetual calendar watch ever produced. The designers used the latest technology in the design of the movement parts. The calculations and the machines used to make the parts are state of the art and very precise.
Produced and assembled by the Frederique Constant watchmakers in our Plan-les-Ouates ateliers, the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar beats thanks to the new in-house FC-775 automatic calibre, which drives the hour and minute hands along with the perpetual calendar. The FC-775 calibre measures just 6,7mm thick, beats at a Frequency of 4 HZ (28’8000 vibrations per hour), has 26 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. The finishing of the 191 parts, produced with the Frederique Constant CNC machines makes sure that this timepiece is a reliable gage of long-term functionality.
Inset buttons on both sides of the case are used to easily adjust the calendar mechanism. One button near 5 o’clock advances the moonphase, while another near 8 o’clock is used for the date of the week, and the one button at 10 o’clock advances the day and date simultaneously. When you adjust your perpetualmcalendar, you need to set the date first and then the day. To finish, the button near 11o’clock displays the month and the leap year at the same time. The hour
and minute functions are adjustable through the crown. Once adjusted, this highly sophisticated mechanism will take into account the months with 30 and 31 days, the 28 days of February and also the leap year cycle with the return of 29 February every four years.
Normally this watch shouldn’t require any manual correction before 400 years, but as there is an exception in the Gregorian Calendar, the watch will need to be adjusted on March 1st 2100, which would have been be a leap year.
Appreciated as a masterpiece in its simplicity and refinement, the perpetual calendar shows the lunar cycles but also the minutes, hours, date, day, month and leap year in four digits.
Loyal to the signature codes of the Slimline collection, the Manufacture Perpetual
Calendar calibre will be fitted in a rose gold 18K case of 42mm.
This model of the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar range is presented with a very clean and pure silver dial with the button-hour markers matching the color of the case.
Dressed in the finest robe, this new model is fitted with a sapphire case back enabling to admire the FC-775 movement with its Perlage & Circular Côtes de Genève decoration and with a case water-resistant to 3 ATM.
This magnificent timepiece is enhanced with a brown or black alligator strap and is presented in a luxurious wooden gift box.
The Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar is not only a great timepiece of haute Horlogerie but is a beautiful time keeper that you can imagine your grandchildren’s children still wearing and cherishing in the future. As a family owned Watch Company, it was important for Frederique Constant not to create a simple watch but a real legacy for the future generation with a price range more than attractive.
In the Travel Time category I like
the DE BETHUNEDB25 WORLD TRAVELLER
De Bethune is an amazing brand that’s like something out of the future. It is truly one of the exotic high end watch brands that I absolutely love! The best part of the DB25 World Traveller is that all the functions are laid out concentrically. It’s very symmetric for a complicated watch. This timepiece is 45mm in case diameter and made out of 18k grey gold. Functions include; Hours, Minutes, Date, Second time zone, Global Time,
De Bethune presents the DB25 World Traveller, an intelligent watch featuring a second time zone and world time expressed with a mysterious display. The exceptional ease of use and convenient systems for setting and display make this timepiece a world première.
The DB25 World Traveller is designed to become a loyal companion for the long-distance traveller. Although the invention of multiple time zones dates back to the 17th century, the readability and adjustment of the functions on a wristwatch have never been so simple and intuitive. The system is completely secure and each indication can be controlled independently. Once again, De Bethune stands out from the pack by inventing a timepiece that is simple in appearance but conceals a gem of technical intelligence.
Visually, the refinement of the DB25 World Traveller lies in the concentric arrangement of the functions. World times appear on a disc in the centre of the dial, encircled by a graduated channel in which a moving microsphere indicates the reference time – also known as the home time. This microsphere, a technical signature of De Bethune since their invention of the three-dimensional moon-phase, has two halves that allow it to also indicate day and night. One half is blue, the other pink, and they reverse positions when they pass 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. Local time is displayed on the hour circle, and the day on the last exterior circle.
The DB25 World Traveller is equipped with the mechanical calibre DB2547 with manual winding, the latest manufactured. The morphology, performance and high-quality execution of the calibre illustrate the degree of excellence and the philosophy of technical exploration that are so particular to De Bethune. For the first time, the central delta bridge is embellished with a “Côtes De Bethune” decoration in the centre, produced using the Microlight micrometric engraving technique developed by De Bethune. The polished plate is hollowed out to become concave and thus intensifies the reflections of light as a result. The regulator is equipped with a new evolution, a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, developed particularly for optimal management of temperature variations.
The DB25 World Traveller transforms the way that a second time zone can be displayed along with a world time indicator. True to the De Bethune approach that focuses first and foremost on the reason behind any watchmaking function, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet have aimed to make the display correspond ideally to the traveller’s needs. They focused their research on readability and comfort, both in wearing the watch and in manipulating its settings.
Starting in the centre, the dial indicates world time, which is set using an almond-shaped push-piece positioned at 8 o’clock. This flexible and precise system moves the city display disc, which is decorated with concentric Microlight, by one-hour clockwise jumps. The first time zone, or reference time zone, is displayed with 24-hour markers and indicated with a mysterious display by the position of the microsphere, which appears to float weightlessly in its channel. Using the crown, it can be set in both directions (clockwise/anti-clockwise). At 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., the crown pivots on itself to present a pink gold face for daytime, or a back side in blued steel for the night. Local time, or the second time zone, is indicated by the blued leaf-shaped hands, whose curve matches the relief of the dial. The minutes hand remains naturally coordinated with the reference hour, while the hours hand is controlled by the crown pulled out to the second notch. The hours hand moves forward and back by direct jumps of precisely one hour. The day indication is the last circle on this display, with a design that evokes the solar system. The day is coordinated with local time only in the clockwise direction, and indicated by a jumping pointer that is adjusted by a corrector at 10 o’clock.
The generous 45 mm diameter white gold case provides plenty of room for this display. The champagne and silver tones also structure the reading by sequencing the succession of the indications. The alternation of decorations and volumes also enhances readability, for example, with the slightly domed hours ring, which is also highlighted with a powdered effect to intensify the luminosity of the surface.
The case stands above the wrist, like an instrument, with open lugs attached to the case back. This frees up the middle so that it is accessible for easy adjustment. The crown is an essential component of the DB25 World Traveller; designed to be thin but wide and slightly raised for greater ease in handling. It moves on three notches that are distinguished from one another by their markings.
A spirit of technical innovation
The mechanical calibre DB2547 with manual winding in the DB25 World Traveller is the 25th calibre designed, manufactured and assembled in-house by De Bethune. In its own right, it is the result of more than 10 years of knowledge and inventions developed by Denis Flageollet and his team. To achieve this new streamlined display, the movement integrates 430 parts.
Visible through a sapphire case back, the reverse side of the movement reveals a new titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts in the rim. The result of in-depth research and prototypes, the balance wheel has the capacity to neutralise the effects of temperature variations through its interaction with the balance spring, with its “De Bethune” flat terminal curve that ensures concentric development. The aerodynamic shape was also designed to diminish air resistance, an important source of disruption, to the greatest extent possible. True to form, it guarantees perfect balance through all stages from manufacture to assembly. Silicon was chosen for the escapement wheel, due to its light weight and in order to increase the power of the calibre. As for the regulator, it is completely maintained by a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system exclusive to De Bethune. The system combines a titanium bridge that integrates two jewels that act as support columns on each side. A leaf spring system supported by the jewels holds the system in place. The partially visible twin barrels accumulate five days of power reserve through a patented self-regulating power mechanism.
Other distinctive features: De Bethune finishes its movements so that they reflect as much ambient light as possible. For this reason, the finish on the majority of the components is mirror-polished. A number of them, whether they are steel or titanium, are also blued, reflecting De Bethune’s signature colour, as seen here on the bridge and the rim of the balance wheel, as well as on the leaf spring of the triple shock absorber. Rose-work grinding is reserved for the barrel ratchets. An outer ring decorated with grained Microlight and perforated by oblong apertures provides the support for the various indications.
There are three watches in the “PETITE AIGUILLE” category
1. Tudor Black Bay Bronze
Right before Baselworld 2016 there was a rumored leak that Tudor was producing a watch for the first time in bronze in a black bay case. Once Baselworld officially kicked off it was confirmed that it was true. It was very well received by press, collectors and the like. Until the watch was released the Tudor Black Bay was only made in 41mm. This is a 43mm case with brass pvd coating. It’s also the only Tudor Black Bay with a 3,6, 9 Arabic numeral dial .This has in hose manufactured movement and is fitted on a aged brown leather strap. Retail under 4k.
The Heritage Black Bay family is growing with the arrival of the new Heritage Black Bay Bronze model, a 43 mm divers’ watch inspired by the brand’s history andtted with a mechanical movement developed, manufactured and assembled by TUDOR.
The characteristic elements of the new Heritage Black Bay Bronze model’s personality have been drawn from TUDOR’s history. It inherits the general lines, as well as the dial and domed crystal, from the veryrst TUDOR diving watches. It features the particularly prominent winding crown from the fam ous 7924 reference of 1958, known as Big Crown.
It borrows the characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, from the watches delivered in large quantities to the French National Navy in the 1970s. The drilled holes on the side of the lugs and their particularly pronounced chamfering can be added to the list of notable historic design elements adopted in this new model.
AN ALUMINIUM BRONZE ALLOY CASE
The characteristic element of the Heritage Black Bay Bronze is an imposing bronze case, 43 mm in diam eter, which is an aesthetic reference to the use of bronze in historic ships and other diving equipment. The choice of this metal, a highperformance alu minium bronze alloy, guarantees the development of a subtle and unique patina to match its user’s habits. In addition to a highly functional appearance in line with the world to which it pays tribute, the Heritage Black Bay Bronze has entirely brushedn ishes that guarantee a homogeneous development of the patina.
A combination of chocolatebrown dial and bezel – arst for TUDOR – with golden and beige accents, completes the model’s look. The visual e ect is that of a patinated object that could have battled the waves on its owner’s wrist for many years, and seems to have been fashioned by him and his lifestyle.
THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. Therst in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan, according to whom the form of an object must follow its function. Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch, those of an understated, functional and reliable tool.
The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch and each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in theeld, including some of the greatest military navies in the world. It is this relationship with these navies which evokes ideas of travel and adventure that the Heritage Black Bay Bronze celebrates.
THE HERITAGE LINE
A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’srst chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most im portant references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line. Far from simply being an identical rerelease of a classic, the models in this line bring together the past, present and future, with the aesthetic codes that contribut ed to the reputation of historic models preserved and instilled into contemporary timepieces. The new Heritage Black Bay Bronze adopts this approach, o ering a new reading of the history of the TUDOR divers’ watch.
HEUER MONZA CHRONOGRAPH
The Tag Heuer Monza from 1976 is one of the coolest and most iconic racing style watches from that time period. TO celebrate this watch this watch was reinterpreted in a 42 mm size and constructed out of titanium carbide. There are only 2,650 pieces made for the world. The functions include; Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Chronograph.
In 1976, Jack Heuer, the great grandson of the brand’s founder, designed a chronograph to celebrate Niki Lauda’s first world championship title with Ferrari. The Swiss watch company was then official timekeeper for Scuderia (from 1971 to 1979), and it was the first time that Monza had appeared on the dial of a watch. At that time, the watch was markedly different, yet very stylish. Close to the spirit of the original, the 2016 reissue features the watch’s two key functions: the pulsometer and the tachymeter scale and with the original font. A link from past to present, the case is now made from grade 5 titanium (previously steel), making it lighter and more shock resistant.
The material is coated with titanium carbide to give it a powerful black appearance. The diameter has also been increased from 39 mm to 42 mm, for a more modern, masculine look. It is equipped with a “super racing” strap in full-grain black calfskin, evoking the design of the three-spoke steering wheel on the racing cars of the time. Inside, the automatic calibre 17, a chronograph with its two counters at 3 and 9 o’clock – perfectly spaced for a beautifully harmonious dial. The screw-on back is numbered and features the historic Heuer logo engraved with red lacquer finish.
The caliber 17 is an automatic chronograph movement, with date. The sunray black dial features “vintage” beige luminescent hour markers. The hour and minute hands are black and white with luminescent markers. With a diameter of 42 mm, the case, as well as the bezel, is made of brushed & polished titanium carbide coated titanium. The glass is a scratch-resistant “domed” sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment and the caseback is made of brushed & polished titanium carbide coated titanium (grade 5) with vintage “Heuer” logo and numbered. The chronograph is 100 m water-resistant. Finally, it is adorned with a black perforated calfskin leather strap , inspired by vintage steering wheels and a black titanium folding clasp with safety push-button and Heuer logo.
With this ultimate recreation of the iconic Heuer Monza 1976, the 2016 HEUER Monza chronograph is a true celebration of the motor-racing DNA of the brand.
3. Tudor Black Bay Dark
This year at Baselworld, Tudor answered the public’s demand for a blackened Submariner by releasing the Tudor Black Bay Dark. There have been a lot of companies in the last 10 years that have done a great job to enhance Rolex professional sports models who aren’t sanctioned by Rolex.To be honest those companies charge way too much money for what you are getting. The Tudor Black Bay Dark is the first watch made by Rolex or Tudor that I want for myself. This is 41mm in case diameter made out of steel with a black PVD coating on the case and bracelet. In my opinion this is the watch that combines vintage and modernity the best! The aluminum bezel has the red upside-down triangle like those of the Rolex and Tudor models from the 50’s. I also love that Submariner is written in Red which is a nod to their iconic models from the sixties/seventies.
A steel divers’ watch entirely in black steeltted with a mechanical movement, developed, manufactured and assembled in-house by TUDOR, the Heritage Black Bay Dark model is a new addition to the Heritage Black Bay family.
The characteristic elements of the Heritage Black Bay Dark’s personality have been drawn from TUDOR’s history. It inherits the general lines, as well as the domed dial and crystal from the first TUDOR div- ing watches. It features the particularly prominent winding crown from the famous 7924 reference of 1958, known as the Big Crown. It borrows the
characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, from the watches delivered in large quantities to the French National Navy in the 1970s.
The indication of guaranteed water depth engraved in red on the dial, and the red triangle on the rotatable bezel can both be added to the list of important historic design fea- tures that reappear in this new model.
The characteristic features of the Heritage Black Bay Dark model centre on the 41 mm wide steel case, nished with a black PVD-treated (Physical Vapour Deposition) coating. Directly derived from the thinlm technology originally developed by NASA for its various space programmes, PVD or physical vapour deposition enables practically any inorganic material to be bonded with metals. The Heritage Black Bay Dark has an entirely satinnish, giving it the appear- ance of black military utility equipment.
SUPPLIED WITH TWO STRAPS
With a choice of black PVD-treated steel bracelet or an aged leather strap with a black PVD-treated steel folding clasp, each Heritage Black Bay Dark model is also supplied with an extra grey fabric strap. Made in the Jacquard technique according to traditional methods by a hundred-year-old family business from the St-Etienne region of France, this strap is a signa- ture feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line.
THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. Therst in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan, according to whom the form of an object must follow its function. Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch, those of an understated, functional and reliable tool. The sixty years that followed the launch of the origin- al 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch and each model gained unanimous ac- claim from professionals in theeld, including some of the greatest military navies in the world.
THE HERITAGE LINE
A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’srst chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most im- portant references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, the models in this line bring together the past, present and future, with the aesthetic codes that contributed to the reputation of historic models instilled into con- temporary timepieces. In line with this approach, the Heritage Black Bay Dark model is a new take on the iconic aesthetic codes from the TUDOR diving watch’s history.