Christophe Claret is one of the most respected, complicated and independent watchmakers in the watch industry today. He is renowned for making tourbillon movements and collaborating with major brands. His newest introduction within his own brand bearing his name is known as the X-TREM-1 Chocolate.
Normally, I am not a fan of super exotic futuristic or complicated watches, but I love the layout and simplicity of this watch even though it is quite complex.
The rectangular case of this watch is 40.8mm x 56.8mm x 15mm and is constructed out of 18k red gold and titanium with a chocolate PVD treatment. I must say the shape of the case and the way it’s laid out is very reminiscent of a Urwerk.
The functions of the watch include hours, minutes and flying tourbillon. The hours and minutes are displayed by two tiny hollowed steel spheres isolated within sapphire tubes on both sides of the caseband. This is quite groundbreaking and ingenious. The two spheres which appear to be floating in their respective tubes are controlled by magnetic fields generated by two magnets moved by ultra-thin surgical silk thread.
What amazes me most is that because of the magnetic field that are caused by the magnets, the spheres have no mechanical connection to the movement and float inside the tubes. These magnetic fields are precision-focused so that they have no serious impact on the movement itself.
The Movement is the Swiss hand-wind C. Claret in-house caliber FLY11 comprised of 419 parts. It has 64 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours. The flying tourbillon is inclined at a 30° angle supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission that rotates once every 60 seconds. It features a Swiss lever escapement, dual barrels: one for the movement gear train and one for the time indications. The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply which optimize the power reserve.
Winding and time-setting is done via rotating “bows” that fold under the caseback. Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the middle at 12 o’clock.
The strap is chocolate brown alligator, equipped with an innovative two-screw fastening system that facilitates strap change and avoids damaging the case.
I know it’s not the most conventional watch by any means, but I think it’s really innovative and revolutionary in a way that’s quite modern and appealing and it’s only limited to 8 pieces for the world.