Now that the 2014 GPHG is officially over, I wanted to announce and congratulate all winners as well as the participants. There were 72 nominees in 12 different categories.
The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix:, Breguet took top prize for the Classique Chronometre in 18k pink gold
The innovative spirit of the Breguet brand has contributed to a number of inventions that have improved time measurement. But far from resting on its laurels, Breguet pursues its quest for precision and invests in the research and development of new technologies and materials. The brand has thus been able to file more than 100 patents in the last 10 years, especially concerning improved timekeeping and striking mechanisms. But with its patent of November 7, 2010 for a magnetic pivot, the brand has set another milestone in watchmaking history by harnessing magnetism to the service of precision and reliability. The Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727 model shows that the company has reached its objectives and set a new level in the search for perfection.
The watch, in rose or white gold is fitted with the new Hand-wound calibre 574DR, which takes advantage of the latest developments from the workshops to deliver impressive rating results. This achievement was mainly due to its balance frequency of 10Hz. When it was applied for the first time in the Type XXII chronograph, this frequency was shown to have improved the time-keeping performance of the balance and spring. Breguet’s mastery of silicon enables the Classique Chronométrie to be fitted with a double balance-spring, pallet lever and escape wheel, all in specially prepared silicon that reaches the high frequency necessary for optimum precision. The result is a regulating power equivalent to around 830 microwatts, an achievement when one considers that the regulating capacity of the best chronometers is between 300 and 400 microwatts. Despite its high frequency, the reference 7727 has a power reserve of 60 hours thanks not only to the energy stored in its barrels, but also to the very high quality of its balance.
However, the major innovation of this Classique Chronométrie model is without doubt the use of magnetic pivots. It is likely that the impact of this invention will not be felt for a few years yet. With the magnetic pivot, Breguet not only controls the negative effects of magnetism in a watch, but also uses magnetic force to improve the pivoting, rotation and stability of the balance staff. Breguet’s watchmakers have designed a stable system using two endstones incorporating powerful micro-magnets (approx. 1.3 teslas) that keep the balance staff centred and self-adjusting. One of the magnets is stronger than the other to create a magnetic gradient. A magnetic flux, generated within the balance-staff induces a magnetic attraction that keeps the end of the pivot in contact with the endstone.
Held in an artificial gravitational force, the balance staff is unaffected by the different positions of the watch and the conditions at each pivot remain unchanged. If a shock knocks the balance staff sideways, the system acts like a pare-chute to return it to its position, except that magnetic forces re-centre the staff to regain maximum magnetic flux. The result is a balance that is insensitive to gravity, more stable and resistant to shocks. These innovations bring the reference 7727’s average rate to -1/+3 seconds a day, well within the COSC chronometer standard of -4/+6 seconds a day. More importantly, the difference in rate between the six positions has been brought down to -2/+4 seconds a day (maximum wind).
No fewer than six patents protect these technical achievements, which represent the excellence of Breguet’s watchmaking.
In tribute to the major inventions realised in the calibre 574DR, a great deal of attention has been given to the appearance of this Classique Chronométrie watch. The dial shows an off-centre chapter of hours and minutes, small seconds at 12 o’clock, a power-reserve indicator at 5 o’clock and a tenth-of-a-second indicator at 1 o’clock having a patented lightweight silicon hand with low inertia that doesn’t affect the balance. The pare-chute is visible at 2 o’clock, both as a reminder of A.-L. Breguet’s 1790 invention and to make the timepiece slimmer.
Stylistic details unfailingly denote a work by Breguet. The dial is engine-turned in six patterns: “Geneva waves” in the centre, a hobnail pattern for the small seconds, sunrays on the tenth-of-a-second dial and chevrons for the power-reserve indicator. The hours chapter is cross-hatched while a barleycorn pattern decorates the outer edge. The hands are in polished steel with the Breguet open tip, while the case in rose or white gold displays delicate fluting. The welded lugs, the unique number and the secret signature complete the marks of the watch’s pedigree. The case, on a leather strap is water resistant to 3 bar (30m) and has a sapphire-crystal back to display the fine workmanship of the movement.
The Men’s Watch Prize went to : Urban Jürgensen & Sonner, Central Second
Ref 11 C SC (Chronometer Detent Escapement Central Second) Platinum or Red Gold
Manual winded watch, hours, minutes, seconds, Up and Down indicator
Diam : 42mm
In a new variation of the extraordinary UJS-P8 detent escapement, the first detent escapement ever created for a wristwatch, the choice was made to renew and connect with the history, tradition, experience and pursuit of accuracy at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, a quest which has been at the heart of the brand’s existence since the 18th century.
The creation of the central seconds hand is a bit more complex than using an indirect second’s sub dial, has additional gears are needed to transfer power through the cannon pinion to the seconds hand from the movement. In fact you will immediately note the motion of the second’s hand which in this case jumps in increments of 1/3 second due to the nature of the detent escapement’s special construction. This same effect can also be noted in ship’s chronometers from the same period as the founding of Urban Jürgensen’s workshop.
The Chronograph watch prize went to: De Bethune, DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon
The DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon, the result of seven years of research and development, is the only one of its kind.This exceptional patented chronograph, packed with innovations, embodies the essence of De Bethune’s watchmaking.
A mono-pusher chronograph
The rose-gold case of the DB29 with its smooth curves features the brand’s trademark cone-shaped lugs with closer strap attachments ensuring optimal comfort on the wrist.The double case back of this time-measuring instrument is fitted with an invisible hinge so as not to detract from its clean lines. A single push button, coaxial with the crown at 3 o’clock, operates the chronograph.
Five central hands
The design of the DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon’s dial with its five central hands aims to make it easier and more attractive to read the chronograph indications by doing away with the small subdials of the conventional chronograph. The hands that give this watch its identity are designed to follow the different shapes and curves of the silver-toned dial.
Measuring long elapsed times: 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds
This instrument measures long elapsed times with counters for 60 seconds, 60 minutes and 24 hours. The central chronograph hands are mounted on co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system that requires real technical expertise to achieve. The maximum duration of the time thus measured is a generous 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds.
Chronometric precision: 36,000 vph silicon/titanium tourbillon, 10th of a second measurement
Thanks to the high frequency ensured by the De Bethune 30-second Tourbillon in silicon and titanium oscillating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour – featuring a speed ideally suited to wristwatches and the lightest on the market with its 63 parts weighing a total of 0.18 grams – time is accurately measured.
A push button at 4 o’clock opens the cover on the sapphire-crystal glass of a titanium case back to reveal the modern construction of the calibre DB2039 movement with its polished steel bridges, the tourbillon at 3 o’clock and the complex mechanism of an innovative time-measuring system featuring three column-wheels.
=>De Bethune total clutch system: a patented chronograph invention
De Bethune’s research and development department has announced the filing of a patent application n° CH00076/14 for the chronograph mechanism. De Bethune’s absolute clutch aims to improve the performance of chronographs by correcting the faults identified in current mechanisms. This mechanism makes the most of the advantages of the horizontal and vertical clutch systems while eliminating their faults. It thus benefits from a marked reduction in the friction that affects the movement both when the chronograph is running and when it is functioning without the chronograph engaged.
In this way De Bethune marks a significant technological breakthrough in the history of chronographs, the result of continuous research heralded by the DB21 Maxichrono in 2006.
The Ladies watch Prize went to: Blancpain Off-Centered Hour
Blancpain once again weds elegance with horological complexity
Blancpain ensures that women no longer have to choose between aesthetic and technical facets of a watch, since both are united within the Women collection. As early as 1930, the Manufacture had grasped women’s interest in horological complications that were formerly reserved for men only. A pioneer in the history of feminine watches with the first self-winding wristwatch for women, Blancpain has constantly innovated ever since by developing a steady stream of elegant timepieces, as this new model eloquently confirms.
A true anthem to femininity, this new creation is lit up with the fire of 152 diamonds. Its 36.8 mm-diameter red gold case is exalted by 108 diamonds totalling one carat. This original gem- setting composed of two interwoven rows of diamonds in various sizes echoes the emblematic double-stepped case design of the brand, while the diamond adorning the crown lends the ultimate touch of refinement.
The white mother-of-pearl dial sprinkled with facetted diamonds features an off-centred hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock graced with 4 Arabic numerals and drop-shaped cut-out hands, while the Blancpain signature at 6 o’clock delicately highlights the retrograde 30-second indication. A wave set with subtly graded diamonds undulates on either side to ensure a perfect balance.
The interior of this timepiece is every bit as beautiful as its outside, since it houses Blancpain’s new 226-part mechanical self-winding movement Calibre 2663SR, with a heart at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The sapphire crystal case-back affords a chance to admire the Côtes de Genève finish as well as the oscillating weight shaped like a five-petal flower dreamed up by Blancpain.
And to meet the wishes and expectations of every woman, this delightful complication model in the Women collection also comes in a white gold variation with a blue mother-of-pearl dial or in steel with a white dial. Each of the gold versions is teamed with a white ostrich leather strap, while the steel model comes with an alligator leather strap.
The PETITE AIGUILLE (Best Watch Under 7500 CHF) went to – Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT
Grand Seiko is simply the very best of Seiko. Since its birth in 1960, the ideals of Grand Seiko have remained precisely the same. Grand Seiko embodies the pure essence of watchmaking: high accuracy, legibility, and reliability. Every Grand Seiko watch shares these values and has its unique combination of functional beauty and design purity. With sales rising rapidly since its global launch in 2010, Grand Seiko is increasingly recognized as one of the world’s great luxury watch brands.
The hi-beat GMT caliber, 9S86, is new, but Seiko’s tradition in hi-beat watchmaking stretches back to 1967, when the first Seiko hi-beat 36,000 vph was launched. The new caliber 9S86 has been created on the platform of the hi-beat caliber 9S85 that has been the leading watch in the Grand Seiko collection since 2009. This caliber has all the features of the existing caliber, with the addition of a 24-hour GMT hand and independent hour hand adjustment. To ensure the hi-beat calibers maintain their high accuracy, Seiko created a new alloy, Spron 610, for the balance springs, delivering greater resistance to magnetism and shock. The escapement wheel and pallet fork are engineered using MEMS (Micro Electro Mechanical Systems) technology for enhanced precision and durability, and a new reverser was created to increase the winding efficiency. The result is a hi-beat watch with accuracy of +8/-1 seconds a day in normal wearing conditions and a power reserve of 55 hours with a single barrel.
The case design is typical Grand Seiko. It is a contemporary reinterpretation of the iconic Grand Seiko design back in the 1960’s and offers highly polished, distortion-free surfaces, clean edges and perfect comfort on the wrist. The dial texture complements the simplicity of the case. It has a delicate radial pattern that is inspired by the many-ridged contours of Mt. Iwate, the mountain that is visible through the side windows of the Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are manufactured and assembled, by hand, by the studio’s craftsmen and women. The razor-sharp edges to the hands and hour markers are signature characteristics of Grand Seiko. Through the sapphire case- back glitters a specially designed titanium oscillating weight. The upper part of the oscillating weight is treated with an anodic oxidation of the titanium to deliver a special gold tone. Titanium is used for its high elasticity and vibration absorbency, which reduces the distortion of the oscillating weight and impact on the weight bearings.
The Striking Watch Prize went to :Hublot Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater
Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater Hublot presents its second Tourbillon Minute Repeater.
A new 100% Hublot Manufacture movement with double cathedral chime.
Born of the desire to pursue an independent route enabling Hublot to design and produce its own movements, the brand has now unveiled its second Minute Repeater coupled with a tourbillon. Exhibiting a marvellous balance between the classic style of its two major complications, a symbol of watchmaking art, and the dynamic, modern design of the Classic Fusion 45 mm, this piece is a fine exercise in style that demonstrates the principle of fusion between Tradition and Modernity.
Entirely designed, developed and produced by the micro-mechanical engineers, engineers and watchmakers at Hublot, and this new Grande Complication is the result of 24 months of R&D. Fully remodelled and optimised since the first version appeared in 2010, the new Tourbillon Minute Repeater retains all of Hublot’s DNA.
The sapphire dial reveals the HUB 8001 hand-wound mechanical movement, with its tourbillon escapement and the Minute Repeater mechanism. Among the notable new features are the newly designed time setting function and a traditional tourbillon with its 13.6 mm diameter cage, which rotates once every minute, and boasts a highly stable construction thanks to the barrette on the dial side.
The assembly of its 319 components – bridges, cams and springs, racks and hammers, gongs and snails, cage, wheels, jewels, screws – is a unique decorative element in itself, beautifully complemented by the watch’s hands, which are red gold- or rhodium-plated, like the case.
One of the technical feats achieved on the Minute Repeater, whose construction requires a level of expertise possessed by only a small number of manufactures, is the complete integration of the trigger piece in the left-hand bezel lug of the Classic Fusion’s case. This means it is no longer an appendage – as is usually the case – but rather a cleverly integrated function which results in a watch with a particularly harmonious appearance.
The power of the double cathedral chime and the exceptional clarity of its tone has already brought it to the attention of connoisseurs. Finally, the Tourbillon Minute Repeater, which has a power reserve of 5 days, is water-resistant to 30 metres – a highly complex achievement at this level, and much sought after by connoisseurs. The sound of the chime no longer relies on airborne transmission, but rather resonates through the material of the case.
The watch has an aesthetically pleasing diameter of 45 mm. The piece looks beautiful in King Gold (extra-precious gold containing 5% platinum) or titanium, the two versions in which this new model is available. It is completed with a strap, with a deployant buckle, in black alligator leather sewn onto tone-on-tone rubber for comfort, flexibility and increased leather durability.
The Sports Watch Prize went to: Zenith El Primero Lightweight
Zenith looks resolutely to the future in developing this sporty avant-garde version of its legendary El Primero chronograph. The keynote of the specifications was the focus on shearing off any excess weight, along with ensuring performance and originality. These demands naturally called for the use of high-tech materials.
Known for their ability to combine technological innovation with creative daring, the engineers and watchmakers of the Manufacture were entrusted with the mission of developing a light watch with a sporty design, while making no compromises on precision, sturdiness and reliability – just as one optimises an engine intended for competition. The sizeable feat began with the movement. Drawing upon its latest research on new materials, Zenith selected titanium – a light and sturdy material widely used in aeronautics – to build the movement bridges.
The Manufacture also opted to use silicon, with the lever and escapewheel made from this high-tech, anti-magnetic material that is three and a half times lighter than classic alloys, harder than steel and a guarantee of excellent efficiency. The carbon and aluminium case with titanium pushpieces and crown reveal the extreme nature of this ultra-sporty chronograph.
Zenith focuses on lightness, daring and innovation in an avant-garde version of its El Primero lightweight chronograph featuring high-tech materials.
This El Primero lightweight chronograph combines a titanium and silicon movement with an ultra-sporty carbon case. It marks the dawn of a new era in the extremely rich history of the El Primero calibre.
The new El Primero Lightweight is distinguished by its carbon case featuring an original and complex construction. It combines flowing dynamics and lightness while displaying exceptional power, very much like the most appealing automotive bodywork. Its sapphire crystal reveals the exceptional ‘engine’ inside: El Primero Calibre 400B Titanium, roaring at a speed of 36,000 vibrations per hour. Based on its latest research in the domain of new materials, Zenith chose titanium – a light and highly resistant metal widely used in aeronautics – to make the main parts of the movements which are the heaviest when they are made in brass: namely the mainplate and five bridges (barrel bridge, balance bridge, lever-bridge, lever-wheel bridge and chronograph bridge). The result is a 25% lighter weight. The openworked dial provides another bird’s eye view of this legendary movement, a dynamic reinterpretation of the collection’s classic design characteristics. The transparency of the central part makes it even lighter and provides a clear view of the skeleton-worked El Primero calibre. The disc-type date display is also both light and efficient thanks to cut-out stencil-style numerals standing out against a red dot at 6 o’clock. The generously hollowed-out facetted hour-markers bear a luminescent coating, while the light grey, blue and anthracite counters pick up the three emblematic colours of the 1969 El Primero chronograph that have become one of the collection’s key signature features. The blue central sweep-seconds chronograph hand with its small Zenith star is accurate to the nearest tenth of a second. Sporty, contemporary and decidedly masculine, the new El Primero Lightweight gives a new breath of life to the Zenith collection, while confirming the innovative capacities andcreative daring of the Manufacture.
The designers of the Manufacture Zenith are keenly aware that the devil is in the details. Attentive to the slightest line, to the feel of the materials, to the functionality of each element, they have redesigned the El Primero lightweight chronograph by focusing firmly on dynamism and performance. The choice of carbon reinforces the technical and sporty look. The internal structure of the case is in ceramised aluminium, a cutting-edge material blending lightness, resistance and hardness. Titanium was chosen for the pushpieces and the crown.
The Revival Prize went to: Omega Speedmaster “Dark Side Of The Moon”
The OMEGA Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon”
Emblematic of OMEGA’s bold style, forward-thinking innovation and adventurous spirit, the all-black OMEGA Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” is a sleek and sporty new addition to the brand’s iconic chronograph collection.
The 44.25mm case in brushed and polished ceramic, fashioned from a single block of black ceramic, is complemented by a matching black ceramic dial crafted from black zirconium oxide. It features striking 18K white gold applied indexes as well as two blackened sub-dials.
These two sub-dials are made possible by the innovative placement of the 12-hour and 60-minute counters on the same sub-dial at the 3 o’clock position, allowing a comfortable and intuitive chronograph reading.
The matt chromium nitride tachymeter scale – among the most identifiable design features of the Speedmaster – stands out on the polished ceramic bezel. The two polished ceramic chronograph control pushers on the case function totally independently.
The “Dark Side of the Moon” is sure to find a strong following among Speedmaster fans and watch enthusiasts who want to combine the impressive legacy of a remarkable chronograph with the best series-produced mechanical watch movement in the world.
The Calendar Prize went to: A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Terraluna
RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna”
Regulator with orbital moon-phase display and 14-day movement
The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna” is a horological masterpiece that combines A. Lange & Söhne’s benchmark precision, inventiveness, and design competence. Featuring an orbital moon-phase display, a perpetual calendar with the Lange outsize date, a power-reserve of 14 days, and a constant-force escape- ment, this extraordinary time-keeping instrument represents the pinnacle of Saxon watchmaking artistry.
The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna” is equally impressive on both sides. On the dial side of the 45.5-millimetre pink- or white-gold case, the watch stands out with the regulator layout of scientific precision watches. The movement side presents an innovative and useful orbital moon-phase display that depicts the constellation of the earth, moon, and sun.
Three circles for time
The large minute circle is at the top of the dial of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna”. The smaller dials for the hours and seconds are beneath it, shifted toward the right and left. As was already the case with the RICHARD LANGE TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite” presented in 2011, this dial design was inspired by a great historic role model: Johann Heinrich Seyffert’s 1807 regulator from the world-famous timepiece collection of the Mathematics and Physics Salon. With his ingenious designs, Seyffert helped transform Dresden into a hub of precision horology in the early 19th century. A great advantage in precision pocket watches, the regulator format was appreciated not only by time-keeping services and observatories, but also by watchmaking manufactories where it was used for synchronising new timepieces. This is because it provided an accurate display of the minutes and seconds.
Four windows for eternity
Beneath the characteristic Lange outsize date – the first one in a model of the RICHARD LANGE watch family, incidentally – two smaller apertures show the dayof the week on the left and the month on the right. Thanks to this arrangement,the calendar displays can be easily read at a glance. The calendar is mechanically programmed to correctly display the different durations of the months in a year as well as those in leap years until 2100. The leap-year indication is located in a small round window on the right-hand side of the 15 of the minute circle. All displays of the calendar switch forward instantaneously to assure unambiguous readings at all times. To keep the power for the switching process as low as possible, the required energy is gradually built up via a cam and then released abruptly at midnight.
The moon on its orbit
An exciting technical innovation can be seen on the movement side: there, the patent- pending orbital moon-phase display shows the location of the moon relative to the earth and the sun – for the first time ever in a wristwatch. The display consists of three discs. On the star-studded celestial disc, the moon – visible through a round aperture – orbits around the earth anti-clockwise once a month. The mechanism reproduces the synodic month of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 3 seconds so precisely that it takes 1058 years before the display needs to be corrected by one day. Beneath it, the lunar disc rotates, featuring two round new moons. The progression of the moon phases can be observed through the aperture in the celestial disc. In the constellation view, the position of the sun is occupied by the balance. On new-moon days, the dark moon stands between the earth and the sun. It appears as a bright sphere on the opposite side of the earth on full-moon days. Thus, the position and phase of the moon are indicated simultaneously. In the centre of the display, the earth rotates about its own axis once a day. It is daytime on the half that faces the sun, or the balance, and night-time on the other. The peripheral 24- hour scale provides a time-of-day reference for the northern hemisphere.
The ambitious precision goals of Lange’s product developers come to the fore not only in the configuration of the moon-phase display mechanism, which consists of three solid white-gold discs, but also in its design. To achieve a vivid and aesthetically sophisticated image of the orbiting moon-phase display, they chose a special coating process. On the celestial disc, for example, interference effects absorb all of the non-blue colour spectra of the incident light. The result is a deep-blue surface studded with more than a thousand high-contrast, sharply contoured stars.
Constant force for two weeks
With two rugged mainsprings, the twin barrel delivers a power reserve of 14 days. When a spring barrel stores so much energy, special technical precautions must be taken to keep the rate of the watch stable during the entire power-reserve period. The torque of the fully wound spring would be too high to be delivered directly to the going train. And as its torque declines when it approaches the unwound state, the accuracy of the watch would deteriorate. An elaborate constant-force escapement compensates for both phe- nomena. In ten-second intervals, it releases an identical portion of the available energy to the balance, thus assuring that the torque remains constant. The result is an unvarying amplitude and high rate accuracy from the first day to the last. At the 6-o’clock position, a power-reserve indicator in the form of a circumferential ring tells the owner when the time has come to replenish the movement with fresh energy via the winding crown.
The Artistic Craft Prize went to: Kari Voutilainen Hisui
One of the greatest lacquer studios of Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, creates works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present and exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period. This kind of artwork made hundreds of years ago is with us still today. It can be restored and remains like new even when the lacquer is touched and manipulated by human hands. This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only gape in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication involved in creating these works of art. The masterpiece shown here features lacquering techniques requiring well over a thousand hours of work to complete the dial and bridges. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).
This bespoke watch is inspired by Emerald and Jade precious stones, which is in fact what the name Hisui means.
This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites East and West in perfect harmony.
The Tourbillon Prize went to: Gronefeld Parralax Tourbllon
The Parallax Tourbillon features: a flying tourbillon; tourbillon cage synchronised to large central seconds hand (with innovative mechanism to improve accuracy); push-to-set-push-to-wind crown; crown function indicator; hacking seconds; power reserve indicator; all stainless steel bridges; in-house movement; superlative hand finishing; multi-layered solid silver dial.
Grönefeld Parallax Tourbillon.
The Grönefeld Parallax Tourbillon features a “flying” tourbillon with a large central seconds hand, stop seconds, a power reserve- and winding-setting mechanism indicator.
The in-house movement displays sophistication and craftsmanship at the very highest level.
Well-designed and impeccably executed tourbillons are particularly accurate timekeepers.
The flying tourbillon allows full appreciation of the concentric, rhythmic “breathing” of the balance hairspring, while ensuring high precision.
Bart and Tim Grönefeld further highlighted the tourbillon by raising it out of the movement and above the dial.
As with the immaculately finished movement bridges, the tourbillon cage is crafted in stainless steel. Three days are required just for the hand finishing of the tourbillon components.
Large Central Seconds.
The precision of the Parallax Tourbillon is evidenced by the large central seconds hand. Normally a central seconds hand requires a friction spring to prevent small fluttering caused by play in the gear train.
For the Parallax Tourbillon, the Grönefeld brothers developed the movement with an added pinion and wheel so that the energy-sapping friction spring is not required: A feature improving power transfer to the regulator and contributing to the impressive power-72-hour power reserve.
Push-Only Crown and Power Idicator.
In addition to the flying tourbillon and friction-spring-free central seconds, the Parallax Tourbillon has yet another innovative feature: rather than pulling the crown to set the time, which has the risk of damaging the fragile crown stem, it is pressed.
An indicator on the dial displays the function selected: “W” for Winding or “S” for time setting. When the time setting function is selected, both tourbillon cage bridge and the central seconds hand automatically return to their respective 12 o’clock positions and stop (or hack) while the time is set.
Stainless Steel Bridges.
Bart and Tim Grönefeld only use stainless steel bridges for their movements. As well as the superior hardness and durability of stainless steel compared to standard brass or nickel, the metal absolutely gleams when polished to a mirror finish. And as stainless steel does not oxidize, the gleaming finish lasts and lasts.
The Parallax Tourbillon is available in a red gold case of 43mm. The red gold model is a limited edition of 28 pieces.
The Mechanical Exception Prize went to :Urwerk EMC
The EMC allows you to obtain a reliable and accurate piece of data on your timepiece at the touch of a button – information that until now has been the preserve of professional watchmakers. Using this information, you can fine-tune one of the most exciting, most jubilant mechanisms invented – the mechanical watch – all by yourself”.
EMC (Electro Mechanical Control) is the world’s first precision mechanical watch wich the timing can be monitored and adjusted by the user to suit their lifestyle. EMC is a fully 100% mechanical watch and fully interactive. EMC features a deconstructed dial with 4 separate indications : (from top left) a precision indicator; seconds dial; hour and minutes; power reserve. Turning EMC over reveals the in-house movement with integrated circuit board.