The Cartier Tortue makes it’s return at Watches & Wonders 2024!

Introduction

At this years Watches & Wonders, Cartier’s Privè  makes it’s triumphant return, rejuvenating one of its earliest and most iconic designs—the Tortue. Originally introduced in 1912, the Tortue is renowned not just for its longevity but for a unique blend of sophistication and tradition that transcends the typical aesthetic of timepieces. This year, Cartier has enriched this line with both a new monopusher chronograph and a series of time-only limited editions, marrying classic allure with modern functionality. The only problem, they are only available in precious metals for now.

The 2024 Tortue Collection: A Blend of Heritage and Innovation

The highlight of the 2024 collection is undoubtedly the Tortue monopusher chronograph, a nod to the historical models of the 1920s and the revered 1998 CPCP edition. This model showcases a blend of tradition and contemporary craftsmanship. Encased in either platinum or yellow gold, the watch measures 43.7mm by 34.8mm with a thickness of 10.2mm. Visibility of the inner workings is provided by a sapphire caseback, revealing the newly developed Cartier Manufacture caliber 1928MC, a column wheel chronograph with exquisite Côtes de Genève finishes on the bridges. This movement not only reflects Cartier’s technical prowess but its commitment to visual elegance, operating at a frequency of 4 Hz and boasting a 44-hour power reserve.

Both variations of the monopusher feature a silvered opaline dial; however, the platinum model is enhanced with rhodium-plated Roman numerals, adding a touch of sleek modernity, contrasted by the printed black numerals on the gold version. The design is completed with blued, Breguet-style hands, encapsulating the essence of classic watchmaking.

In addition to the chronograph, the Tortue lineup is complemented by a trio of time-only models, including a particularly opulent platinum version adorned with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a platinum and yellow gold time only.  Each of these models features Cartier’s caliber 430 MC and echoes the same design language as the chronograph but within a slightly smaller frame of 42.4mm by 32.9mm and a 7.2mm thickness.

Accessibility and Affordability

I really respect Cartier’s choice to make these models exclusively in platinum and yellow gold as it has just made its way back into the collection. However, I am eager to see these available in stainless steel making them more accessible and price friendly. I guess it’s a good thing that all these precious metal versions above are limited to 200 pieces each. They won’t be here for too long.

At the end of the day…

While the choice of materials and the intricate craftsmanship justify the premium pricing, there is an amazing opportunity for Cartier to expand its reach. At the end of the day, a stainless steel version will catapult it to a broader clientele, enhancing both the practicality and affordability of these exquisite timepieces. As it stands, the Tortue collection remains a tribute to Cartier’s relentless pursuit of merging artistic expression with horological precision, continuing to enchant collectors and new admirers alike.